The previous long day of travel finally hit home and this morning we slept in until almost 10am. Given that we have missed any sort of breakfast we decide that we should just get moving and find some early lunch along the road.
We have decided to catch the local bus again and ride out to the north-west corner of Penang Island (Pulau Penang) and go to the Penang National Park. The west side of the island is mostly all mountainous, including the area that we were in last night at Penang Hill, and roughly the top quarter is a protected park area. Thinking there will be some interesting views, and that the air might get a little more clear out from the main part of the city we set that as our destination and head off for the bus station.
Having missed breakfast we are a little hungry, but the road we are walking along does not seem to have a lot of options available for a regular sit-down meal. Every once in a while we see a large open, semi-covered area that looks sort of like a North American beer garden but with some sort of food service inside. After walking past a few of these places hanger starts to win out, and we decide to go into the next one we see.
The food service is sort of like what you might expect at the mall (altho not as fancy of course) with a number of different dishes of food. The bad news is that most of the people working here do not speak very good english and none of the food is marked as to what it is, so it is Russian Roulette of food. After a bit of gesturing with the staff we think that the process is to load up a plate and take it to the front where they charge you by volume – on that premise I think I should try a little bit of anything that looks tasty so that I will know what to have or not to have next time. It turns out that it works different than that – you are charged by the number of different items you have on your plate, so I have lined myself up with a sampler plate that is a little pricy by SE Asia terms. As it turns out, most of the food is fairly tasty, sadly however we still don’t know what the tasty items are actually called so the next meal is bound to be hit and miss also 🙂
After lunch we find our way to the central bus station, with the help of a few friendly locals, to make our way out to the national park. I was initially quite impressed with the bus system here – there were lots of busses, and they did not look like hand-me-downs from some other country, but I was fully unprepared for the central bus station. The Komtar station is where every public bus in Penang converges right in the middle of downtown, and it is here where the chaos begins. There are hundreds of people here all waiting for buses, and of course people arriving all the time to change buses, etc. The boarding process can only be described as a scrum of starving people lunging forward for a single meal! The sea of people surges forward to the open door until a security guy jumps in once the bus is packed to the rafters so that the driver can close the door. It takes us two rounds of this to finally manage to get in the right place in the scrum to get carried forward to the door by the rest of the mass.
The bus is so jammed full of people that the driver does not even stop along most of the first half of the route unless someone is getting off. In the rare place where we do stop many people just look in the window at the crowd of people and wave the bus off. By the time we reach the half way point in the route enough people have gotten off that while it is still standing room only, you do not have to get a pre-nuptial agreement from the person joined to you at the hip. By the time we get to the national park about an hour later we are I think the only people left on the bus…
Perhaps it is because it is Ramadan here, or maybe it is getting late in the day, but there are hardly any people at the park – which I guess it is nice for us to mostly have the place to ourselves! We do a little looking around and decide that we are going to take about a 2 hour hike across the corner of the park and then have hired a boatman to meet us on a beach on the opposite side for the return trip at around sunset.

The first part of the hike is quite nice – the trail is well built and we are walking along the coast so we have some nice views of the sea. There is a jungle canopy walk – basically a bunch of walkways / rope bridges hung up in the trees – that you can do a bit inland and we had purchased some tickets for that before we started out (this is the only thing that costs money in the whole park). We start to head inland to the canopy walk and the terrain starts to get a bit more rugged and the quality of the trail starts to drop off a bit, still quite good, but a noticeable change from the costal trail.
The canopy walk is about 5 or 6 sections of overhead bridges that criss-cross the jungle about 60 feet above the jungle floor. The walk is interesting, but given the zip-line adventures we have done it pales a bit in comparison. We are not disappointed as the tickets were not at all expensive, and it was something we have not done before so worth the stop.

Back to the jungle floor we start the real part of our hike, up and over a ridge and onward to the beach on the other side. It is here however that the trail deteriorates even further and is really just a path at best now. We have about 3km to go through the jungle and the vertical rise is about 400 meters so this is now becoming a fairly serious workout. Of course there is no breeze in the jungle, and no cold drink stations, so I am now measuring my progress in pints of sweat per meter traveled!

After about an hour we get to a point where the trail converges with another trail so we know we are not fully lost, and shortly after that we reach the summit of the ridge, so it is now mostly all downhill from here. This is a good thing because I am not sure how Mrs. Columbus would have carried me out of the jungle without her sherpa gear to carry me on!
The trail down the backside of the ridge to the beach is no great shakes either, but it is downhill so as long as you watch your footing it is a lot less exertion. Of course to add insult to injury at one point we spot a local guy who is jogging the trail up from the beach!?!
We finally make it to the beach and it is actually quite nice here – many of the beaches on Penang are quite coarse sand or rocky so this one is a nice surprise. The beach is called Turtle Beach because supposedly this is where the sea turtles come to lay their eggs, but in addition to the lack of other people around there is no sign of any turtles here either. We decide to just sit on the beach and take in the tranquility until 6pm when our boat is supposed to meet us for the return trip to the park entrance.

6pm soon comes and goes, and by about 6:30 Mrs. Columbus and I are starting to look at each other with that ‘now what’ look, as we know that the trip back through the jungle will take longer than the sun is going to be around for and the trail would be a disaster in the pitch black. We are just coming to the conclusion that being stranded on the beach will be better than lost in the jungle when we see a boat coming in from the distance. It turns out that Malaysians are often late (we are informed of this by another Malaysian), and this is indeed our boat, but the driver had a chance to take another customer to another beach so he is running behind.
Rescued from being castaways, Mrs. Columbus and I no longer have to worry about eating coconuts and making grass skirts, and we can enjoy the nice boat ride back to the pier. After the hike we are really tired, and I am ready for a nap, but we need to wait for the bus to go back to town, so we sit down at a street-side restaurant for dinner while we wait. We get back to our room sometime after 9pm and it is the end of another long but enjoyable day.
