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Archive for the Category "Summer 2009"

Safari Time Aug 04

One of the things we had promised the kids we would do while we were in Thailand was to got to a safari park and ride the elephants.  While we did let them have a short ride on Jackie’s birthday in Ayutthaya, most of the feedback we found about safari parks was that the best ones were in the north around Chiang Mai – our trip yesterday proved our research to be right on the mark.

While we were wandering around the old city on our first day here, we ran into a tour operator on the grounds of one of the temples – at first we were a little apprehensive, fearing that we were going to get pressured by a typical tout trying to rope tourists in, but the lady (Riam) chatted with us for a few minutes and in addition to being very helpful, her services were priced quite a bit lower than the tour desks we had spoken to in our hotel and on the street.

It seems that her and her husband work independently from the big tour desks – he is the driver, and she is the guide – and they prefer to work with smaller private groups and families vs just selling X seats to fill the bus to go to a given location.  This seemed like a great fit for us and we signed up for a trip to an elephant park – they would provide transportation for the day and guide services for $500 Baht (about $15 USD) and we would buy our tickets for the safari direct from the park – turns out that we saved about $1000 Baht by doing this vs a standard tour operator.

Our tour takes us to the Maetang Elephant Park (some info about their animal friendly program can be found here), and the day’s program is for us to take a 1 hour elephant ride, and ox-cart ride, stop for a buffet lunch, and then a 1 hour bamboo river raft ride.  The tickets cost us $1000 Baht each (vs the $400 Baht we paid in Ayutthaya for 20 mins) so the day seems like a steal to us, and by the time we are done, it will be among the best $30 USD per person we have spent so far.

We begin with the elephant ride – the ‘trek’ takes us back and forth across the Maetang River a couple of times and up into the mountains and to the Lisu mountain tribe village.  We get the added bonus of a couple of baby elephants following us (and their momma’s I suspect) along the trail.  The trek itself is awesome, it is so peaceful going through the jungle, and the scenery is amazing.  We bring some bananas and sugar cane with us to feed the elephants along the way, and they clearly know who has food and where it is 🙂

Once we get to the Lisu village, we get off the elephants and they transfer us to an cart pulled by two oxen for the return trip to the camp.   The elephant drivers (mahout) return the elephants to the camp, and the ox carts plod along down a road to return the people back to their starting point.  To get us all into a single ox-cart Jackie got to sit up front with the driver – at one point he turned over the reins to her and she was driving us along down the road – clearly, the rules for driving an ox-cart in Thailand are a little laid back!

Once we get back to the camp we walk back down to the river to watch the mahout’s give their elephants a bath and a refreshing dip in the river, and then there is a short show with about 8 or 9 elephants to show some of the amazing skills that the elephants have learned.  One of the elephants has been trained to kick a soccer ball with striking accuracy, and can also flip the ball up with it’s trunk and then kick it in the air with either it’s front or hind leg – it seems like maybe the Ladybugs soccer team back home could use a few practice sessions with the elephant 😉

One of the elephants (named Suda) has been trained to paint pictures using her trunk – we have seen this before a places like the Calgary Zoo, but this is much more impressive – she paints an actual picture of an elephant and some flowers (all the ones we have seen before are really only a random bunch of brush strokes on a page).  At the end she signs her name on the picture and takes a bow.  Jackie asked specifically for a picture painted by an elephant for her birthday present, and was thrilled to be able to see the elephant paint the picture, and then was able to buy the actual picture painted that day!  (I have a video of the painting being made that I will post online somewhere once I get back to a high speed connection)

All the while our guide, Riam, is helping us to get the perfect spots to view some of the events, or arrange the purchase of the picture, etc. so with her great help the tour is going along fantastically.  Next it is off to lunch before taking the bamboo raft down river.  We were not expecting anything great from the buffet having sat through a couple before, but were pleasantly surprised when the buffet contained a large array of choices and they were all well prepared, including a couple of our favorites – spring rolls, and mango with sticky rice.  After a few visits to the serving table, we are done with lunch and off to the bamboo rafts.

The raft is exactly what it sounds like – about 20 bamboo poles strapped together to form a flat ‘raft’ – for us they place 3 wooden frames on top of the raft for seats and we are ready to go.  I am not completely certain they thought through the whole process of feeding people before getting on a raft, but the big lunch we just consumed surely helps to lower the raft a little lower in the water….  In the center, the raft seems like it is sinking – sitting about 1/2 inch below the surface of the water, but surprisingly the whole thing is quite stable, and aided by the 2 Thai ‘drivers’ the raft wanders it’s way down the Maetang River.

The raft journey is about 4 kilometers (a little under 2 miles) and while not quite as good as a massage, the experience is quite zen like.  The only sounds, other than the people on your raft talking, is pure nature at it’s finest, and it would be easy to just let the river carry you and your raft along for the entire day if it were possible.  Sadly, our crew and their raft must make their way back (the raft gets loaded on a truck for the return trip) so after our 4k we unload on the river bank where our smiling tour guide is waiting to pick us up.

On the way back towards Chiang Mai we decide to stop at a monkey school – the facility trains monkeys to pick coconuts as the monkeys are much more agile than a human picker, and can harvest the coconuts much faster by leaping from tree to tree vs the human alternative.  There is a little baby monkey here that the kids all get a picture taken with and a number of monkeys in the facility that you can go look at, and then they put on a short show to show off some of the skills they are being taught.  They say that it takes about 4 to 5 years to train the monkeys properly before they can go out and work the coconut farms.  The show was fun, and some of the monkeys and there tricks were quite cute, but it felt a little ‘touristy’ to me so while the kids enjoyed it, I would likely pass the next time around.

For the last stop on our trip we take a long windy road up the side of one of the mountains overlooking Chiang Mai city to see the Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep – this is likely the last temple we will see while here, but it is quite impressive, and has a phenomenal view of the city and the surrounding area.  The temple complex sits high above the road and can be reached by climbing the 309 steps to the top (or by a tram if you are real lazy) and we all ‘step-up’ to climb the stairway.  Once we get to the top the view is everything it is cracked up to be – it is too bad that it was a little hazy because the pictures do not do it the justice it deserves.  We also step into the temple itself to look at the Chedi and to get a blessing directly from one of the monks – we had not been blessed this way since the temple at Koh Samui, so a fresh blessing seems like a good thing 🙂

Our tour comes to an end with our return to the city.  Riam and here husband were great, and we had such a great tour that we have booked them again for another tour out to Chiang Rai a couple days from now.  We take an hour or so to unwind and then pop down for a massage 🙂 for the perfect end to a perfect day.

Category: Summer 2009  | Tags: ,  | 3 Comments
How Bizarre Aug 03

Something that we have experienced here that we did not see in the south is the markets.  The beach town in the south had all sorts of shops and little markets, and even variants of night markets where vendors set up shop in the streets to sell there trinkets or street food, but Chiang Mai seems to take this to a different level.  Here there is a daily Night Bazaar, a Saturday Market and a Sunday Market in addition to all of the various local markets.

I have no other way to describe these except as pure chaos – there are literally 1000s of vendors who stake out about 50 square feet (6-8 feet on each side) to display their wares for the passing mob of people.  For the Saturday and Sunday markets they close down the street the market is on to car traffic, while the Night Bazaar is lined up on the sides of the street but facing inwards across the sidewalks towards the store fronts.

The markets themselves go on for blocks and blocks – the Sunday Market boasts over 7 kilometers (about 3 miles) of shopping!!  To top it all off the place is totally packed with people, in some places the crowd is so thick that you move along at a pace that makes a turtle look like a sports car – and as I mentioned above this goes on for miles.

The females in my group seem to love this, but after about the first mile it is easy to draw some conclusions:

  1. Tourists seem to buy the dumbest stuff – I understand the value of getting some souvenirs to remember your trip, or to give to friends back home, but much of this stuff to me looks like the leftovers from a bad re-gifting party.
  2. There seems to be only about 10 manufacturers of market junk – with all the 100s of vendors at each of the markets there only seems to be about a dozen or so unique offerings, and all the rest are just competing with each other to offer the same thing, and it would appear that they all buy their inventory at the same central warehouse.
  3. The market is no place for me 🙂 – after about an hour or so of plodding along with Mrs. Columbus and the girls and looking at the 97th booth of the same jewelry, I leave them to their shopping and return to the hotel.

I resolve to leave the shopping to the professionals, whom it seems to make some sort of sense to, and use those valuable hours to get some work done, and pamper my tired feet a little…

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Global Economy – Local Prices Aug 01

One of the many things that has jumped out at us here in Chiang Mai is the difference in prices between the north and the south where we came from.  All of Thailand has been hit by the same global slowdown that we hear so much about in the USA, but it is clear that some places here are more dependent on the world economy than others.

When we were in the south there were signs that things were a little slower than normal.  Even with this being the off season for tourist travel to Thailand, the beach resorts often mentioned to us that it was much slower than usual due to people’s fears about the Swine Flu and the economic slowdown.  This was most obvious to me when shopping for a massage as the price I was expecting to pay – about 300 Baht ($9 USD) – was reduced to about $200-$250 Baht ($6-$7 USD).  Imagine my surprise to get up north and find the cost of a massage to be in the $100-$120 Baht range!!! ($3-$4 USD) That is for a full hour of heavenly goodness!!!

We went to a shop the other night and lady who owned the shop was telling us that about 1/2 the shops that would normally be there have closed due to the slowdown in tourism.  The Rambutan, a popular fruit in SE Asia, normally sells for about $30B/kilogram, but the season is relatively short and because of the lack of people, the farmers are selling them for less than $10B/kilogram to try and get rid of them before they just become spoils.  I can’t even imagine the impact of having to lower my prices by 60% just to try and keep the lights on.

All these things are of course good for us, as the cost of accommodations, sightseeing, food, and local travel are all similarly reduced.  While I figured you could easily live quite well in Phuket for about $2500 USD / month (food, housing, etc.), I suspect you could do it here for around the $1500 USD/month mark – and that would be living the high life!  Anyway, it is great for us to see, and the locals are very happy to see us stop in their shops for goods or dinner.

We went looking at furniture today and saw some beautiful hand-carved goods.  Many of these pieces take several months for a carver to finish, and it is amazing to just watch them work.  We are still thinking about buying some items here and having them shipped to Seattle, and the trip today was very educational about what they can make here.  We clearly have some more thinking to do about what we are looking for.

It is off to Thai cooking school tomorrow – we are going to learn how to make some of the local dishes so that we can ‘attempt’ to reproduce some of them in our own kitchen in the future.

Category: Summer 2009  | Tags: ,  | One Comment
New Photos and Maps Jul 31

I have uploaded the last of the Kata Beach photos here, and added some new GPS maps here for those that are interested 🙂

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Goodbye to the beach… Jul 30

It is time for us to finish up the southern part of our travels.  After 5 weeks in southern Thailand we are leaving the beach and heading north to Chiang Mai and the interior of Thailand.  Our days in the south worked out much better than we could have expected, with rain (during the monsoon season no less) only impacting us for really 2 days out of the 35 or so that we have been here.

We changed our proposed plan a bit to and ended up going to Khao Lak and Kata at the end instead of going up the gulf coast and stopping in Bang Saphan and Hua Hin – I guess we will have to visit those spots the next time we are here 🙂  The change worked out for the best though as the weather was fantastic particularly in Kata and we had some great down time just enjoying the days we had left.

For our last day in Kata I finished up with a bit of spa time – I got the ladies to scrape the barnacles off the bottoms of my feet (and for me they did not have to use a Dremel tool for that), and then had them finish up with a foot and oil massage.  We rounded out the day with a trip to the Red Chair restaurant – this is a spot that was recommended by my parents as one of the places they frequented when they were here.  It is way off the beaten path, so unless you knew about it you would never find it, but it must be popular with the locals – we had some of the best Thai food we have had so far there, and it cost about 500 Baht (about $15) to feed the whole family – and we ate a lot there!

We left the hotel at 8pm for our journey to Chiang Mai.  We are flying the midnight flight to Bangkok, and then ‘sleeping’ in the Bangkok airport until 6am for our morning flight to Chiang Mai.  I am not sure how well this will all work out, but but I expect some tired, cranky people to appear at the end 😉

Category: Summer 2009  | Tags: , ,  | 3 Comments